Material Takeoff

Material takeoff from your plans

Drag in the plan set and it reads the dimensions off the sheets so you do not have to hunt for them. You check what it found, and it gives you a material list.

A material takeoff is the list of everything a building needs before anybody can price it – how many studs, how many sheets of sheathing, how many cubic yards of concrete, how many squares of roofing. Doing one by hand off a set of plans takes an afternoon and a legal pad, and the arithmetic is the easy part. The hard part is not forgetting anything.

What this does

Upload a plan set and it reads the sheets – the legends, the notes, the schedules and the details, not just the floor plan – and pulls out the dimensions a takeoff needs. It shows you everything it found, and where on the drawings it found it, before it calculates anything. You correct whatever is wrong. Then it works out quantities for framing, concrete, roofing, siding and trim, insulation, drywall, and plumbing and electrical rough-in.

If you would rather not upload anything, type the numbers in yourself. That path is free, there is no limit on it, and it produces exactly the same list.

Priced at what you actually pay

Quantities are only half an estimate. Upload your building supply house's own price sheet – a spreadsheet, a CSV, or a quote printed to PDF – and every list you make afterwards is priced at your rates, not at a national average that is wrong in both directions. Anything your supplier does not carry, you type in once from a phone quote: concrete is the usual one, because a lumber yard will not quote ready-mix.

Each trade gets its own subtotal, and anything still unpriced is counted out loud under the total – so a figure that quietly left out the concrete cannot look finished.

What it will not do

It will not size a framing member. Whether a rafter is a 2×8 or a 2×12, what a truss is built from, where the headers and beams go – that depends on span and load, and it belongs to whoever engineered your plans. You get counts and lengths; you do not get sections. Trusses come back as a count and a span to send the truss plant, because they are quoted as a package rather than priced off a lumber list.

It will not choose anything for you either – no cabinets, no fixtures, no flooring, no paint – and it does not cover site work, excavation, utilities, permits or labor. Every figure carries an accuracy band, and every assumption it made is printed underneath your list so you can check it rather than trust it.

An estimate to bid from, not a quote

Nothing here replaces reading your own drawings. A takeoff done off a rectangle does not know about your bump-outs, and a count read off a drawing is worth checking against the drawing. What it does is get you to a checkable list in a minute instead of an afternoon, with the arithmetic already right and the assumptions written down where you can argue with them.

Sign in to read a plan set. Your first one is free, and it is tied to your account rather than this browser – so it follows you to your phone on site.

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Your supplier's prices

Ask your building supply for their price sheet – a spreadsheet, a CSV, or a quote printed to PDF. Upload it once and every list you make is priced at what you actually pay. Anything they do not sell – concrete, most likely – you can type in by hand at the bottom of your list.

A price sheet is kept on your account, so sign in to add one. Quantities below are free either way – signing in is what puts dollars next to them.

Sign in to add prices


No plans handy? Type the numbers in instead – it is free, there is no limit, and it gives you exactly the same list. A supplier price sheet works the same way on typed numbers as it does on a read plan set, so you can price a job you measured yourself.

17 of these are needed. They are the ones without "optional" beside them, and nothing is calculated until they are all filled in. Everything marked optional either defaults to something sensible – and says so at the bottom of your list – or is simply left out. Then press the button at the end.

The building
Add up the walls inside the house – not the outside walls. Easiest way off a plan: write down each room's perimeter (walk it round: 12+14+12+14), add those up, take off the outside perimeter of the house, then halve what is left. You halve it because the wall between two rooms gets counted twice, once by each room. Closets and hallways count.
Foundation
Crawlspace and basement only. The perimeter wall that stands on the footing and carries the floor – measure from the top of the footing to the top of the wall. On a crawlspace it is often 36-48 inches. This is usually MORE concrete than the footing, so it is worth finding on your foundation sheet.
How thick that perimeter wall is – commonly 8 inches. Shown on the foundation detail as the width of the wall sitting on the footing.
Roof
How far the roof sticks out past the wall at the eave. On the section or the elevations, commonly 12 to 24 inches. It matters more than it looks: a 24" overhang right round a 60 x 40 house adds about 500 sq ft of roof to sheathe and cover.
Trusses arrive built, so what you need is a count and a span to send the truss plant. Stick framing is cut on site, so you need rafters and a ridge.
Usually 24" on center for trusses, 16" or 24" for rafters. Defaults to 24".
Total roofed-over porch, patio or deck area, in square feet – front, back and sides added together. Measure each one off the plan (12 x 8 is 96) and add them up. It adds roofing, sheathing and porch ceiling, none of which the main rectangle knows about.
Pick one and the covering is worked out in squares – a square is 100 sq ft of roof. Leave it alone and no covering is listed at all, rather than a guess at one.
Siding and trim
Worked out from the wall area with the windows and doors taken out. Leave it alone and no siding is listed.
Paint and flooring
Inside covers the walls, ceilings, doors and trim. Outside adds the siding, the soffits and the eaves, and the exterior doors and trim. Leave it alone and no paint is listed.
Kitchen, bathrooms, laundry and mudroom added together, in square feet. Pace them off the plan – a 10 x 12 kitchen is 120, a bathroom is usually 40 to 60. Everything else counts as dry area.
Bedrooms, living areas and hallways – the majority of the house.
Kitchen, bathrooms and laundry. Often different from the rest of the house, which is why it is asked separately.
Doors and windows
Insulation
Crawlspace and basement only. A vented crawlspace gets batts under the floor between the joists. A sealed or conditioned one gets board against the perimeter wall instead. Your plans or your energy code sheet will say which.
Only if you insulate the part of the perimeter wall standing above the ground rather than the whole wall. Leave it blank and the full wall height is used.
From the plans or the energy sheet – R-13, R-15, R-21. It is printed beside the quantity so you can see whether the price you matched is for the right batt.
The attic figure – commonly R-38 or R-49.
For insulation under the floor over a crawlspace – commonly R-19 or R-30.
Plumbing
Lighting